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This work was originally published in different form in Great Britain as Traveling the World by Sinclair-Stevenson Limited, London, in 1990. Portions of this work were previously published separately in The Great Railway Bazaar, Sunrise with Seamonsters, The Old Patagonian Express, The Kingdom by the Sea, and Riding the Iron Rooster.

Grateful acknowledgment is made to the following for permission to reprint previously published material:

EMI MUSIC PUBLISHING AND CAREERS—BMG MUSIC PUBLISHING, INC.: Excerpt from “Oh, Carol” by Neil Sedaka and Howard Greenfield. Copyright © 1959, 1960 by Screen Gems—EMI Music, Inc. Copyright renewed 1987, 1988 by Screen Gems—EMI Music, Inc./Careers—BMG Music Publishing, Inc. All rights reserved. Reprinted by permission.

HARCOURT BRACE JOVANOVICH, INC., AND FABER AND FABER, LIMITED: Excerpt from “East Coker” from Four Quarters by T. S. Eliot. Copyright 1943 by T. S. Eliot. Copyright © renewed 1971 by Esme Valerie Eliot. Rights throughout the world excluding the United States are controlled by Faber and Faber Limited. Reprinted by permission.

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eISBN: 978-0-307-79027-9

v3.1

To Anne Theroux,

who made it possible for me

to go on these journeys.

“My father was full of Sayings,” the Hawaiian said. “He told me once, ‘Kaniela, remember this. No matter where you go, that’s where you are.’ ”

Contents

Cover

Other Books by This Author

Title Page

Copyright

Dedication

Introduction

Map

1 The Great Railway Bazaar

The Mysterious Mister Duffill

Looking out the Window at Yugoslavia

Dusk in Central Turkey

Sadik

Peshawar

The Village in the Railway Station

Mr. Bhardwaj on the Railcar to Simla

In Jaipur with Mr. Gopal

The Grand Trunk Express to the Real India

“I Find You English Girl”—Madras

Mr. Wong the Tooth Mechanic

Mr. Chatterjee’s Calcutta

The Hopping Man

Memories of the Raj—Mr. Bernard in Burma

Gokteik Viaduct

The Hué—Danang Passenger Train, Vietnam 1973

The Trans-Siberian Express

2 The Old Patagonian Express

Travel Is a Vanishing Act

On the Frontier

Lost Lover in Veracruz

Magic Names

Earthquakes in Guatemala

The Pretty Town of Santa Ana

Soccer in San Salvador

Holy Mass in San Vicente

To Limón with Mr. Thornberry

In the Zone

Shadowing an Indian

High Plains Drifter

Buenos Aires

Borges

In Patagonia

3 The Kingdom by the Sea

English Traits

Rambler

Falklands News

John Bratby

Shallys

Bognor

Sad Captain

(1) B & B: Victory Guest House

(2) B & B: The Puttocks

(3) B & B: The Bull

(4) B & B: Allerford

Holiday Camp

Happy Little Llanelli

Tenby

Naked Lady

Jan Morris

Railway Buff

Llandudno

Looking Seaward

Insulted England

Mrs. Wheeney, Landlady

Belfast

Giant’s Causeway

The Future in Enniskillen

Mooney’s Hotel

Cape Wrath

Royal Visit

Trippers

Typical

4 Riding the Iron Rooster

Belles du Jour

Mongols

Chinese Inventions

Public Bathhouse

Shanghai

The Red Guards and the Violinist

Performing Animals

The Edge of the World

Lost Cities

Fear of Flying

Handmade Landscape

The Terra-cotta Warriors

Endangered Species Banquet

Shaoshan: “Where the Sun Rises”

The Great Wall

Mr. Tian

Cherry Blossom

Driving to Tibet

Lhasa

5 Down the Yangtze

Trackers

The Yangtze Gorges

6 Sunrise with Seamonsters

The Edge of the Great Rift

Curfew

Rats in Rangoon

Writing in the Tropics

Natives and Expatriates

His Highness

The Hotel in No-Man’s-Land

The Pathan Camp

Dingle

Nudists in Corsica

New York Subway

Rowing Around the Cape

Introduction

I HAD BEEN TRAVELING FOR MORE THAN TEN YEARS—IN EUROPE, Asia, and Africa—and it had not occurred to me to write a travel book. I had always somewhat disliked travel books: they seemed self-indulgent, unfunny, and rather selective. I had the idea that the travel writer left a great deal out of his or her book and put all the wrong things in. I hated sight-seeing, and yet that was what constituted much of the travel writer’s material: the pyramids, the Taj Mahal, the Vatican, the paintings here, the mosaics there. In an age of mass tourism, everyone set off to see the same things, and that was what travel writing seemed to be about. I am speaking of the 1960s and early 1970s.